The first time I visited Provence, way back in 2013, I made a grave miscalculation. Actually, that’s false—I hadn’t calculated anything at all. I’d just assumed that I could turn up when I pleased, and that I’d see rolling fields of lavender.
Unfortunately for me, I rolled in near the end of August. And even in the years before “heat domes” regularly roiled France, this was simply too late for the bloom of la lavande, which I only managed to see in its dried form, sold in purple, lace bags in the region’s cities.
The extent to which I ended up being a city slicker on this trip makes me perfectly qualified to answer the central question of today’s post—which, not to worry, includes additional data from this year’s trip. Is Avignon or Arles a better fit for you?
I’ve Been Pondering This Question for a Long Time
As I mentioned in the introduction to this page, I’ve been thinking about where I stand on the Avignon vs Arles debate for over a decade. Like most things in my life back then, the conclusions I drew were harsh, and not always rooted in reality. For example, because I stayed in an inconvenient and uncomfortable…campsite over the river from central Avignon, my early impressions of that city were colored by the vantage point from which I had to access it.
Likewise, I first stepped into the center of Arles right in the afternoon, which is the sort of light a local person told me had originally attracted Vincent Van Gogh to the city. I actually stuck around long enough for sunset, and while it wasn’t a life-changing spectacle, it further deepened my love for the city. When I left France in 2013, therefore, I thought I had a pretty clear idea of where I stood.
Ways to Compare Avignon with Arles
Getting there and away
Although both cities are technically served by the TGV, only Avignon has dedicated service from Paris and Marseille—if you take a “TGV” to Arles, it runs on ordinary tracks to reach the station. If you plan to visit Provence’s lavender fields after your time in one of these cities, Avignon is generally closer to the Luberon, Sault and Valensole plateaus, though if you have a car (and you should), the distance is immaterial.
Cityscape
Comparing Avignon and Arles in this regard, there’s no clear winter. Avignon almost feels more like a citadel, centralized and fortified, and is especially impressive as seen from the banks of the Rhône River, which it rises above. Arles, by contrast, is built around a Roman amphitheater; its historic center is comprised of the streets that radiate outward from this urban design nucleus.
Attractions
As you can imagine, the aforementioned Arles Amphitheater is probably the most notable attraction in Arles, though it’s not the only game in town. Many travelers also visit the Fondation Vincent van Gogh, though in my opinion, it’s slightly disappointing; just outside of town, you’ll find the ancient Pont du Gard aqueduct. In Avignon, by contrast, nowhere else really has the gravity or importance of the Palais du Papes (remember “The Great Schism” from AP Euro?), though wandering around the city center is an exercise in discovery.
Places to stay
Comparing Arles vs Avignon on this front is a matter of both quality and quantity. There are simply more accommodations in Avignon, from the high-end Hôtel d’Europe to the modest Camping Bagatelle, the “campground” where I stayed (but thankfully did not camp) in 2013. In Arles, on the other hand, options are more limited—splurge (relatively speaking) at the Hôtel Spa le Calendal or save the Brit Hotel Acacias, presuming you stay in Arles overnight. Most travelers don’t!
Crowds
Both of these cities are reasonably popular with tourists from all over the world, though I’d generally say that Avignon is more popular, on account of its importance to Catholicism. Arles’ aforementioned cityscape (which is necessarily more spread out, on account of flowering around the amphitheater) also feels more open, even when it’s crowded. So if you’re sensitive to lots of people everywhere you go, Arles may be a better fit.
Other Places to Base Yourself in Provence
Obviously, you can stay other places in Provence, either instead of or in addition to Arles or Avignon. The obvious one is in Aix-en-Provence, a university city that I have actually never much been a fan of, in spite of it being probably the most important city of inland Provence. Other options in this area include Nîmes (which I consider sort of a large version of Arles) and of course Valensole, assuming you want to focus on lavender or other agriculture.
On the flip-side, you could opt to stay in Marseille, which I’m sure sounds strange to you–Marseille isn’t in Provence, right? It technically is, which continues to shock me. With this being said, it’s obviously not very convenient to either of the cities I’ve spotlighted in this post, so it’s definitely a place you’ll want to go in addition (not instead).
Other FAQ About Arles and Avignon
Is Avignon or Arles better to visit?
Personally, I think this question is a draw. I love Arles for the ease of exploring it—most of what’s worth seeing there is a block or two down the dozen or so streets that radiate from its Roman amphitheater. On the other hand, the older (and, oddly, the further removed from Catholicism) I get, the more I can appreciate Avignon and its stateliness.
Is it better to stay in Arles or Aix-en-Provence?
Arles is slightly more remote than Aix (to which the city’s name is typically abbreviated) and is home to less accommodation, but to me is more charming. It’s also more beautiful, although part of this might be the power of suggestion. Vincent Van Gogh is said to have loved the city because of the quality its light lended to his painting; I’ve decided that I believe that.
Is Avignon worth staying in?
Avignon is probably worth staying in if you’re looking for a base in Provence, and can appreciate the majesty of the Papal Palace, your own feelings about Catholicism notwithstanding. However, I highly recommend staying in town, rather than settling for the campground over the river like I did many years ago.
The Bottom Line
Can’t decide whether you want to visit Avignon or Arles (presuming, I mean, that you don’t have time for both?). Not to worry. While each of these cities provides a unique base for exploring Provence, they aren’t quite the same. For one, there’s the monument that each is built around: The Papal Palace in the case of Avignon; a Roman amphitheater in Arles. As you can see simply knowing this fact, neither of these places is messing around. Want to take a deeper dive into planning out your trip to Provence, or to France more broadly? When you hire me as your Travel Coach, I’ll assist you in curating activities, meals and accommodation, plus detailed transportation advice throughout your France itinerary.
