My exploration of Normandy didn’t start off well. “Where are you headed?” The girl (obviously drunk, maybe on drugs) asked after tapping on my window just past 5 AM—I didn’t roll it down.
“Nowhere,” I replied, without making eye contact. I wasn’t lying—I’d planned to sit there in my car (in a parking lot outside the walls of Brittany‘s Saint-Malo) for a while, and map out my trajectory before setting off. Unfortunately, in order to avoid being mugged (not by her, but her out-of-frame boyfriend), I had to set off without making much of a plan at all.
Thankfully, I was able not only to finesse my Normandy itinerary on-the-go, but to escape the aforementioned scene without any violence. Here’s to hoping that your trip begins with less drama.
Where to Base Yourself in Normandy
Obviously, there are a fair number of Normandy hotels, but where you stay will depend upon what the rest of your trip in northwestern France looks like. If you only plan to visit Normandy itself, example, you might stay a bit further east, such as Hôtel le Rayon Vert in Éretrat, or L’Absinthe Hôtel in Honfleur. These are relatively central are far as sightseeing only in Normandy is concerned.
If, on the other hand, you also plan to explore Brittany, you might choose a more westerly property, potentially even one that’s technically in Brittany. Specifically, I think Saint-Malo (and in particular, the Hotel Elizabeth) makes a great base if you want to explore both of these regions. You can also technically stay on Mont Saint-Michel (I like Chez Adèle), though the novelty of staying here isn’t necessarily matched by the convenience.
Where to Go in Normandy
Mont Saint-Michel
It should go without saying that you should visit Mont Saint-Michel on your trip through Normandy—it’s far and away the most famous attraction in the region. However, I have a couple of suggestions for you. First, unless you come on a day trip from Paris (a truly daunting endeavor, to be sure) don’t focus your entire day on the monastery. Instead, come as early in the morning as possible, and leave before most crowds arrive.
Éretrat
To be sure, if you simply travel from Paris to Mont Saint-Michel, you’ll miss out on some of the other amazing destinations in Normandy. One of my favorites is the gorgeous city of Éretrat, made all the more beautiful by the fact that it’s ensconced by the white cliffs of the Alabaster Coast. I suggest hiking from the Falaise d’Aval down into town, and having lunch there.
Deauville and Trouville
These two nearby towns are easy to miss, but impossible to forget. Although I didn’t have time to enjoy them as locals do—namely, a relaxing day on the beach, sunset in the ferris wheel or an evening in the casino—I definitely found their energy as I passed through both of them on my way back west to where I was staying. If I’d been in my right mind—and I’m sad to say I wasn’t; more on that in a second—I’d have continued from Deauville and Trouville to Honfleur.
Bayeux
Instead, I headed straight for Bayeux, whose cathedral has earned a reputation as one of the top things to do in Normandy. At the time I wandered inside it, I was impressed—it was the first Gothic cathedral I saw on this particular trip to France. If I’m honest, however, it pales in comparison to many others I saw, though that’s a topic for another article. A few other articles, actually.
D-Day Beaches
I’m a reasonably big history buff, but I’m also not a huge (American) flag waver. I obviously honor the legacy of the D-Day landings; but I feel like other people have done more than enough to honor the event. Fittingly, I arrived at Omaha Beach to find that clouds had rolled in, marking an end to the bright and sunny weather that had defined the day up until that point. I guess it was an appropriate turn of events—it would be difficult to see a place like this as some kind of leisurely escape.
A Honfleur-Sized Hole
The city of Honfleur is often voted as being not only the most beautiful in Normandy, but one of the most beautiful in France as a whole. And that—a hole, I mean—is what you currently find in this itinerary. I’m embarrassed to say that as much due to the confrontation that started my Normandy road trip as because of what might’ve been generally poor planning (hey, I was literally less than 24 hours off the plane), I simply did not go to Honfleur.
And so obviously, this presents a bit of an elephant-in-the-room situation. Simply put, I cannot currently answer the question “is Honfleur worth visiting?”—I certainly didn’t seem to think that it was. However, I can say for sure that the next time I visit Normandy, whenever it happens to be, Honfleur will be right at the top of my list. I might even stay there overnight to make sure I don’t miss it again!
Other FAQ About Visiting Normandy
How many days do you need to see Normandy?
Normandy is a very large and culturally rich region—you could easily spend several days or even a week here. By contrast, if you stay here overnight and have a car (in other words, if you can go where you want, when you want), you could see most of Normandy’s highlights within the span of a single day.
What is the best town to stay in when visiting Normandy, France?
If you plan to explore Brittany in addition to Normandy, move your stay west—in Saint-Malo (which is technically in Brittany), or even on Mont Saint-Michel itself. If not, then I find the picturesque coastal cities of Éretrat and Honfleur to best the best places to stay in Normandy.
How long is the train ride from Paris to Normandy?
The fastest way to reach Normandy by train from Paris does not involve traveling directly to Normandy. Rather, it involves riding a TGV train from Paris to Rennes (in Brittany), and either traveling onward by there from bus or local train, or renting a car (which, to be honest, makes much easier work of all of it).
The Bottom Line
Your Normandy itinerary almost certainly won’t begin with the drama mine did. Which is not to say there won’t be drama—there will, in the best possible way. From the chartreuse bog-lands leading to iconic Mont Saint-Michel, to the chalky cliffs just outside of Éretrat, Normandy is so much more than the World War II beaches, even if those are a worthwhile stop, especially if you’ll be driving. This is to say nothing of other great destinations like Deauville and Trouville, and the city of Bayeux and its iconic, gothic cathedral. Need personalized help assembling the perfect trip to France? Commission a custom France itinerary today!
