If I’m honest, I’m less sanguine about France’s Côte d’Azur than I used to be. Back in 2013, when I first visited, I felt overwhelmed by the glitz and glamour—and I felt a part of it, which is ironic given how broke I was (and looked) back then.
These days, there’s a dichotomy at play. On one hand, I recognize the objective beauty of the coast (whose waters are nothing if not azure) and appreciate the eclecticism of the cities and towns along it, from St. Tropez, to Nice, to Menton, and everywhere in-between. On the other hand, I simply can’t be bothered with the artifice and snobbishness of it all.
Of course, I’m not here today to opine—well, not only to opine. I’m here to provide you with a concise, beautiful and actionable French Riviera itinerary.
Where to Base Yourself on the Côte d’Azur
As you might imagine, the majority of French Riviera hotels are clustered in and around Nice. This tends to work well for a couple reasons, the first is that Nice sits near the geographical center of the Côte d’Azur. You can just as easily head east to Menton, Monaco and Èze as you can west to Cannes, Antibes and Saint-Tropez. If you don’t plan to sleep multiple places along the Riviera, then Nice makes probably the perfect base for day trips.
Then, of course, there’s the fact that so many hotels in Nice (from the bougie Palm Boutique Hôtel to the five-star Hôtel de Couvent) and the general extent to which Nice itself is an enjoyable city. It’s a win-win-win situation.
My Favorite French Riviera Destinations
Nice
As you can probably tell when you read the previous section, I’m a big fan of Nice. Whether I’m sunning myself on the beaches of the Promenade des Anglais, wandering through Cours Saleya Market and the Old Town or looking down on it from the Colline du Château viewpoint, Nice is one of the most satisfying destinations not just along the Côte d’Azur, but in France as a whole.
Èze, Monaco and Menton
Another thing I love about Nice? You can use it not just as a stop along your Côte d’Azur itinerary, but the foundation of it. For example, whether in your own vehicle or using a combination of train and bus, you can string three of my favorite French Riviera destinations—the citadel of Èze, colorful Menton and the principality of Monaco, ideally in that order—together into one enthralling day trip.
Antibes and Cannes
Heading westward, meanwhile, is definitely still satisfying, although I’d say that the returns are diminishing ones. On one hand you have Antibes, which in my opinion offers the best single-frame photo you can take (it’s the main one of this article) along the entire Côte d’Azur. On the other you have Cannes which, unless you happen to visit during the film festival, is actually pretty underwhelming—it’s like a smaller, uglier version of Nice. Sorry, not sorry!
Saint-Tropez
Which is not to say that one of my favorite things to do on the French Riviera is to complain, though I do have one more gripe to share. Namely, I don’t think that I have ever felt less welcome anywhere than I did in Saint-Tropez. The parking situation alone (all the main garages were full, and attendants just said “no” when I asked them where else I could park) was almost a kill-shot; the pretentiousness on the streets was thicker than the filler in most visitors’ faces.
Marseille and Les Calanques
Marseille is technically part of Provence, and I’ve recently learned that it’s controversial (and maybe even offensive) to include it in discussions about the French Riviera. At the same time, the underrated city shares many obvious commonalities with destinations along the “official” Côte d’Azur, especially when you consider it in conjunction with the nearby Calanques National Park.
How Many Days Are Enough in the French Riviera?
The French Riviera is way bigger than it looks on the map. Even with a car—and I would know!—driving from Saint-Tropez all the way to Mention takes 3-4 hours, and that’s assuming you don’t stop. You almost certainly will. There’s also the fact that while individual spots along the Côte d’Azur can seem relatively small, they vary so much in elevation that it takes time to explore them, especially during hotter summer months.
As a result, while the question of how many days on the French Riviera is a somewhat open one, I generally recommend spending now fewer than three days here. By contrast, if you want to explore more deeply, you could spend 5-7 days here, potentially even based in more than one place. For example, you could stay a couple of nights in Èze or Menton, head east to Nice for 2-3 nights and then end with a short stint in Antibes or Saint-Tropez.
Other FAQ About Visiting the French Riviera
What is the best month to visit the French Riviera?
The French Riviera is at its most alive, culturally speaking, during the summer. This unofficially begins in May, with the Cannes Film Festival, and continues through the month of August, when virtually all of France is on holiday. With this being said, beautiful weather can last well through September and October, even if much lighter crowds can make the Riviera seem less alive.
How much does a trip to the French Riviera cost?
The French Riviera can be eye-poppingly expensive, but it doesn’t have to be. I usually tell people that you should expect a minimum cost of €100 per-person, per-day (for hostel accommodations and one meal out per day), €200 per person, per day to stay in a basic hotel with lunch and dinner at a restaurant and at least €300 per person, per day to stay in a four-star (or nicer) hotel and eat at most restaurants without worrying too much about cost.
Which is better, Amalfi Coast or French Riviera?
I personally prefer the French Riviera over the Amalfi Coast, if only because so much more of the former is local and authentic than the latter, which has basically become one big tourist trap. Beyond this, Amalfi’s challenging geography means that traveling to and along it can be cumbersome if you don’t have your own car; by contrast, virtually everywhere along France’s Côte d’Azur is connected to the rest of the coast by rail.
The Bottom Line
I hope my French Riviera itinerary makes it easy for you to plan your trip. France’s aptly-named Côte d’Azur can seem overwhelming by virtue of its sheer size, never mind how unwelcome the snobbier communities along it can make you feel if you wander onto their cobbled sidewalks unprepared. However, if you know what to expect from both a practical and emotional standpoint, neither the pretentious of the Riviera nor its scale will intimidate you, whether you’re in Cannes, Antibes or even the principality of Monaco. Need personalized help planning your south-of-France extravaganza? Commission a custom France itinerary today!
