I’ll never forget the first time I arrived in Nice in 2013—and not just because I was paying €60 for a dorm bed in a hostel, though that was of course notable.
Indeed, although I was still very much in my backpacker phase then—and I definitely looked the part—I felt glamorous from the moment I stepped onto the Promenade des Anglais. (A few nights later, when I was making out with a stranger on its rocky beaches under moonlight? Not so much…ouch!)
I bring this up because as I rewrite my Nice itinerary today, I’m not just looking at it through the lens of the decade-plus that has passed. I’m a fundamentally different traveler now—a better one, I hope—and I’ve done my best to imbue this new guide (and my broader France itinerary) with the nuance and depth that only experience can offer.
Where to Stay in Nice
Unfortunately, none of the places to stay in Nice (not hostels, and certainly not hotels) have gotten any cheaper since 2013. You can see this for yourself if you browse beds at Villa Saint-Exupery Beach Hostel, which on virtually every day of the calendar cost more than the €60 I quoted in the intro to this piece. Likewise, it will come as even less of a surprise that bonafide five-star properties such as Hôtel de Couvent can cost as much per night as some people (me included) pay for rent each month.
The sweet spot, at least if you’re visiting in the off-season and/or can book months or up to a year advance, is Nice’s relatively large selection of three- and four-star boutique hotels. I recently called The Palm Boutique Hôtel (which is located equidistance between Nice-Ville Station and the red-roofed Old Town) home for several nights, and I found that it struck a perfect balance both on price and ambiance.
My Favorite Things to Do in Nice
Start your day at Cours Saleya
Cours Saleya Market is definitely my favorite place to begin a day in Nice, though I say this with a caveat—you shouldn’t go too early. If you do—before about 9, if we’re being honest—you risk arriving when most of the stalls are empty, both of the gorgeous flowers and food they sell, but also without the people-watching that makes the heart of Old Town Nice such a joy to stroll through.
Continue it along the Promenade des Anglais
It won’t shock you that I’m recommending you head out the market gate and onto the Promenade des Anglais after either you or your camera has eaten. Whether you simply stroll and take pictures, or change into your swimsuit and lay on Nice’s famous rock beaches until you’re so overheated you can’t help but jump in, there’s a reason this stretch of shore tends to rank so highly on lists of what to do in Nice.
Dive into Nice’s culinary heritage
This might sound redundant, but once you finish up at that beach, I suggest that you head back to the market. Or at least through it, before continuing up into the deeper streets of Nice’s Old Town. At any of the eateries here (or, if you decide to head west, then really all the way to Place Masséna), you can sample some of Nice’s best dishes. The top choice, unsurprisingly, is Salade Niçoise (yes, I see you, “White Chicks” fans), though the Pizza da Nizza gives Italy’s best pies a run for their money.
Visit at least one art museum
No matter how many days in Nice you end up spending, I do recommend visiting at least one museum, which on its head migh seem strange. Like most of Europe, after all, Nice is basically a living museum—what’s the point of devoting time to a dead one? Well, there are two reasons, one of which of course is the rare ability to enjoy free air conditioning in France. The other? Some of Nice’s museums are genuinely incredible, with my personal favorite being the Marc Chagall National Museum, located about 10 minutes from the old town by Uber.
See the city all lit-up
If you visit Nice in the middle of the summer like I tend to do, staying up past sunset (which occurs after 10 PM at the solstice) can be quite a tall order. Well, let’s back up—this also require you to do be an early riser (and, thus, an early sleeper) like I am. Regardless, I do recommend staying awake long enough to watch at least once Nice sunset, and to watch the city light up amid the darkness. I promise it’s worth how rotten you’ll feel the next morning!
What About the Rest of the French Riviera?
As you’ll know if you’ve managed to explore my other France content, I’m a big fan of the French Riviera as a whole, even if I’m admittedly less sanguine about it in my early 40s than I was in my late 20s. But I digress. Or maybe I don’t—I have to be honest the Saint-Tropez is one of the least-welcoming places I’ve ever been, to say nothing of how little Cannes lives up to the reputation of its name.
With this being said, other places along the Côte d’Azur are among my favorite day trips from Nice, namely Antibes, which are this point I think might be the most beautiful town along the coast. Other favorite spots of mine include the easterly trio of Èze (the citadel above the sea, rather than Èze-sur-Mer right along it), Monaco and Menton, which is probably my single favorite excursion, given how easy it is to do as a three-in-one “package.”
Other FAQ About Visiting Nice, France
Is Nice, France worth going to?
Nice is definitely worth going to, and more than that, is probably the most satisfying base along France’s Côte d’Azur. It’s centrally located to other cities and towns along the coast, and is (relatively speaking) among the least snobby of them all. On the other hand, it is extremely crowded and is very expensive, so I’d suggest mentally preparing yourself for that, if you’re only looking forward to amazing beaches and incredible food.
What is the best month to visit Nice, France?
Nice is at its best during the summer, when the only thing more prevalent than crystalline skies are temperatures so hot that you can’t help but sink your toes into the pristine waters lapping at its rocky beaches. With this being said, Nice has a long “summer.” While July is the absolute best month to visit Nice, you can enjoy reliably warm, sunny weather as early as May and as late as September.
How many days in Nice, France is enough?
If you simply want to explore Nice’s Old Town and spend a day along its beaches, then 1-2 days in Nice is plenty. However, if you plan to use it as a base to explore the Côte d’Azur more broadly, then 3-5 days is a more appropriate length of stay, particularly if you also want time to relax and enjoy yourself, rather than simply rushing (like I do!).
The Bottom Line
Whether you’re a budget traveler visiting the French Riviera for the first time (like I was, 13 years ago and counting), or closer to the bougie boutique-hotel dweller I am today, my Nice itinerary is exactly what you need to plan your trip. Likewise, it’s as perfect for exploring the center of Nice (whether you eat your way through Cours Saleya Market, or sun yourself on the beaches of the Promenade des Anglais) as it is for taking day trips from the city, be that heading westward to Cannes and Antibes, or eastward to Èze and the principality of Monaco. Need personalized help planning your Côte d’Azur adventure? Commission a custom France itinerary today!
